Building a skincare regimen can seem daunting. There is so much information out there, so many products, how do you know if you are making the best choices? I hate to break it to you, ya kinda don’t.
When it comes to skincare, I say it all the time, it is very opinion-based. When it comes to products in particular- there is a lot of trial and error. Talking to your skincare professional and doing research (not on TikTok) is always a good place to start.
One of the first things I like to ask clients, or perhaps a question you can ask yourself is: “how many products am I willing to commit to?” This is an important question because something else we always say is- CONSISTENCY IS KEY. Yes, being consistent is quite literally the most important piece of the puzzle.
Being consistent with 3 steps is better than owning 6 great products and never actually touching them. So I always like to ask, realistically, how many products would you use? I get it, 8-10 steps ain’t for everybody, and it certainly isn’t for a skincare newbie. When I build what I would consider a “beginner regimen” for clients, I try to keep it to 3-4 steps (not including their SPF). Now, is this the most results-driven option? I mean, if it’s just for prevention, depending on what you’re aiming to prevent, honestly, sometimes. However, if you are looking to CORRECT a skin concern, then just know eventually you will need a targeted treatment or two, but 3-5 steps is a good place to start.
What are these 3-5 steps usually? A cleanser, exfoliator, toner, functional hydrator, and SPF. Super basic, super bare bones but when they are good quality and the right products, even these seemingly simple steps, can be very effective in achieving your skin goals. Don’t forget, SPF is truly the best form of anti-aging there is but I am about to go to aesthetician jail and say something I shouldn’t say- frankly, I don’t really care what SPF you use, as long as you use one. Do we have better quality ones with actual skincare benefits? Absolutely, but if you are being thrifty, I personally would rather you invest in the other pieces of the regimen. Yes, in a perfect world, I would love for you to invest in a SKINCARE SPF but if you are at least using one meant for your face- I’m happy. Sorry, maybe that’s just me, but again in my Tamra Judge voice “that’s just my opinion!”
So something that does grind my gears is people assuming cleanser, exfoliators, toners, and moisturizers are the less important steps of a regimen, that you can use the cheap stuff and invest in high end serums, and to that I’m just going to say: NO. Let me just say quickly, without going on too much of a tangent: despite what people want you to believe, medical-grade skincare is not a gimmick. The ingredients are better quality and more potent and they MUST have research and clinical studies to support claims about their benefits. They are designed to provide effective results and products from the drugstore or Sephora are just not held to the same standards. These seemingly “basic” steps are anything but basic, they lay the groundwork and foundation for everything else. Anyway, back to our regularly scheduled program…
Cleansers, exfoliators, toners, and hydrators are not created equal. They are not simple, unimportant steps that can be interchangeable. These products must be good quality to truly be effective and they must be compatible with your skin type. So these products should be selected based on whether you consider your skin normal, dry, oily, combination, or sensitive. This is often easy to determine on your own but sometimes it’s tricky.
So first step, selecting a cleanser. Consider your skin type and concerns, such as dryness, sensitivity, or the need for gentle exfoliation. Sensitive skin? I’d go for something gentle, that doesn’t contain exfoliating acids, maybe something creamier or even a balm-like consistency, the same would go for dry skin. If you’re oily, best to get an oil-free option, something that suds a bit or has some AHAs or BHAs to balance out that oil, without stripping the barrier. If you have normal, balanced skin, a gentle foaming cleanser to remove impurities and support the barrier function is great. Regardless of your concerns, you always want your cleanser to make you feel clean- without any dryness, and you still want to feel hydrated after cleansing but not like there’s still a film on your skin.
Exfoliation. Now, the amount of you that tell me you don’t exfoliate shakes me to my core. Exfoliation is SO important to promote that cell-turnover rate. If you want that smooth, perfect, glass skin, you ain’t gonna get it without exfoliating. If you’re new to exfoliating, it’s okay to start slowly once a week but I think 2-3 times a week is ideal, and depending on the type of exfoliation, if you can tolerate it, daily exfoliation is okay with the right products. If you are acne-prone and have active breakouts, I tend to lean towards chemical exfoliation because that physical grit can sometimes irritate the skin. If you have normal skin, I like a good scrub a few times a week, even if you use a retinol or serum that promotes turnover, if you can tolerate it, I still think you should try to use a physical exfoliant during the day throughout the week. An enzymatic exfoliation is great for sensitized skin- because even if you’re sensitized you shouldn’t avoid exfoliation. Even if you can only tolerate an essence or toner with a “whisper” of glycolic acid added to it, that’s better than nothing!
Leading us to toner… What is it exactly and do we even need it? I feel like toner wears many hats and comes in a lot of forms these days so I can understand how it can be confusing for consumers. For the longest time, toner was meant to balance your skin’s pH levels, frankly if you’re using good skincare a lot of products these days do balance the pH as well, but if you are keeping it bare bones, a toner can be a beneficial addition. Depending on the ingredients, toners can remove impurities, aid in hydration, prevent breakouts, minimize pores, and even exfoliate your skin. When choosing a toner be mindful of your skin type as actives can vary between hyaluronic acid, glycolic acid, niacinamide, ceramides, etc. If you are on the more sensitive side you may want a toner that hydrates and calms the skin. If you are acne-prone or oily, a hint of glycolic or salicylic may be a good way to support your skin health.
Now for hydration… dry and dehydrated skin are not the same thing. Sometimes our skin produces excess oil to overcompensate for dehydration. That’s also why I always like to use the term hydrator over moisturizer because I truly don’t believe everyone needs a moisturizer, some people just need hydration. What’s the difference? Hydrators are good for all skin types. They often utilize humectants or hyaluronic acids to help bind moisture to your skin. These are often those serums and light creams that your skin almost “drinks up” as I like to say. A moisturizer on the other hand, is typically heavier and more occlusive. They can act as a barrier and help seal in moisture to provide relief to irritated skin, or that surface-level dryness. Another simple way to put it- hydration: for skin lacking water, moisturizer: for skin lacking oil. Moisturizer can also come down to personal preference or time of year, I personally only use one at night or during the dry winter months, as my serums provide me with enough hydration.
Okay, I was a little harsh before, let’s revisit this SPF thing so I can get myself out of aesthetician jail and really break down what I meant… SPF is one of those things that’s so important, I just want you to get it on your face. I know that a lot of SPF’s can feel heavy, leave a white cast, and feel almost suffocating. Personally, there’s even medical-grade sunscreens that I think lay on the face terribly. That’s just the nature of the game and it’s very much a personal preference kind of product, so again- I just want you to use one. I will say, as a girl with crazy sensory issues, I absolutely adore SkinMedica Essential Defense and the Colorescience Flex SPFs… and I am typically a ZO and Skinbetter kind of girl but I don’t like the way their SPF feels on my skin. So again, I say this all to point out, if you like the way an SPF feels and sits on the skin- you’ll actually use it and that at the end of the day is what is important.
So there you have it, we laid the foundation down, and if that’s all you can handle, girl, I get it. But if you are looking to prevent or correct any skin concerns, then we need a little razzle dazzle. That’s where targeted treatments or serums come in. So this is when I would ask, what concerns are most important to you in terms of correction and prevention?
If you have otherwise healthy, normal skin but want to boost the basic regimen, definitely incorporate a good antioxidant complex and/or a quality hyaluronic acid. If you have large pores, redness or imbalances in the skin, then maybe a good active balancing serum. Looking to prevent sun damage or correct pigmentation? A quality pigment inhibitor may be the answer to your prayers. Want some glassy-ass skin, and to turn back the clock? Think about a retinol, sis. Whatever your concern, there is a solution, you just need to find it, and give it a fighting chance.
So as you can see, it’s not as intimidating as it seems but it’s also not as easy as adding cute bottles from Sephora in your cart. There are a lot of things to consider when curating a regimen… the most important things being the C word, no not that one! I’m talking about consistency, and time- it takes time. As long as you can commit to being consistent and understand that it may take time, it’s no longer a matter of IF you will see results, because you will. Just remember, it’s a marathon, not a sprint.