To put it simply, hyperpigmentation is a common condition that causes darkened spots or patches on the skin. To better understand hyperpigmentation and how to treat it, it’s important we understand the science behind our skin function and how we even get skin color to begin with!
So let’s get to know melanocytes and their role in hyperpigmentation… melanocytes are cells in our skin, hair, and eyes that produce melanin. Melanin is what actually produces pigment. For instance, the more you produce, the darker your eyes, skin, etc. Now, there are also two different types of melanin. Eumelanin is associated with darker skin tones, which absorb UV and visible light wavelengths as a protective mechanism. Then, pheomelanin is associated with fair, light skin, or the pink parts of our body, it produces more free radicals and can worsen effects of UV exposure. Well, actually I lied, we also have something called neuromelanin but it’s related to our nerves and does not affect our appearance. Anyway, there are also two different types of pigment. Constitutive is natural pigment generated without UV exposure and facultative is induced pigment which results from UV exposure or inflammation. Still with me?
Regardless, all melanin starts from an amino acid called tyrosine, then tyrosine is converted to melanin by enzymes. Once melanin has been made, the cell forms little packets called melanosomes. They are basically melanin granules that are utilized for sun protection and basically what gives our skin color. This explains why lighter skin tones burn more easily in the sun. It’s all starting to make sense now! But why exactly do skin colors differ if all of our skin performs this process? Well the size and number of melanosomes vary person to person. So dark skin has bigger melanosomes and more of them, while light skin, of course, has smaller melanosomes and less of them.
Now, as stated above, hyperpigmentation is when we get dark spots or patches on the skin. To put it simply, it’s basically when our melanin production is out of whack, and these conditions are commonly caused by sun exposure, inflammation, hormones, or aging. Other triggers include autoimmune diseases, metabolic disorders, vitamin deficiencies, stress, pregnancy, menopause, medication, illness, or heat. Pigment disorders which you may be familiar with are things like melasma which some refer to as “pregnancy mask”, lentigines or “age spots/liver spots”, or even vitiligo which is actually the loss of color in patches. Regardless of the condition, there are definitely plenty of treatment options for you.
First and foremost, let’s start with at-home care. Definitely try to see a dermatologist or aesthetician to have a consultation, so they can understand the root of your condition and suggest a proper regimen. But I’m going to briefly get into the ingredients to look out for…
Now, I want to get the controversial one out of the way and that is, you guessed it: hydroquinone. Again, don’t let me stop you as I know it can have successful outcomes… but before even considering going down that route, I would suggest getting a couple professional opinions. As I personally, am not fond of this treatment option. There have been a lot of reports of serious side effects, which I’m sure are mostly from misuse or using too high of concentration. But nonetheless, I just believe there are healthier and effective ingredients out there- and before any aestheticians come after me: THAT IS JUST MY OPINION (yes, that’s a Tamra Judge reference, if you know, you know). I know it can possibly induce toxic effects on melanocytes causing crazy rebound effects, it’s been linked to organ-system toxicity, and just generally has been known to cause permanent damage to skin. So hydroquinone it up, at your own risk.
Some safer ingredients to look out for are Vitamin C, just make sure it’s a quality and stable form of Vitamin C. Vitamin C is inherently a highly unstable molecule, meaning it oxidizes when it’s exposed to light, air, and heat. It can also be unstable when suspended in water, so all serums are not created equal. If you’re going to use Vitamin C, get a professional or medical grade product. Obviously, don’t use it if you have a sensitivity to Vitamin C.
Kojic Acid can be very effective, as it prevents the formation of tyrosine which is the amino acid necessary to produce melanin. Since it does this it can have a lightening effect on dark spots. It has been known to cause contact dermatitis in those with more sensitized skin but other than that hasn’t been linked to anything serious, and has been proven to show good results in as little as two weeks.
Niacinamide paired with arbutin can be highly beneficial. Niacinamide aids in collagen production and helps to restore your skin’s moisture level and arbutin has skin-brightening effects. Together, they work to exfoliate layers of dead skin cells, helping to lessen the visibility of dark spots and hyperpigmentation. This duo is generally well-tolerated and safe, even for those with sensitized skin.
Did you think I wasn’t going to mention retinoids? Retinoids benefit the skin in many ways by stimulating the cell turnover, which have also been proven to lighten some forms of pigment as they reduce epidermal melanin. Now, with retinoids- YOU WILL HAVE ANTICIPATED REACTIONS. (Sorry, I just wanted to be louder for those in the back.) If I had a penny for every client that told me they stopped using retinol because it made them red, dry, or flakey… well I’d be in a villa in Italy right now. THAT IS NORMAL! Your skin will even purge for a bit while it acclimates to the treatment, but it will eventually acclimate with regular use. It’s just one of those ingredients that needs time. Now, if your reaction to any product is extremely painful, with severe red patches, hives, etc., that’s a different story and you should discontinue use and visit a dermatologist. With that said, when it comes to these more result driven, potent ingredients, your skin will react so just something to think about if you’re willing to be patient through that process.
Now let’s get into some gentler botanicals, mulberry and licorice extract have both been known to help combat hyperpigmentation. They also help to disperse the melanin and inhibit tyrosinase, which helps improve dark spots and uneven skin tone. Looking out for products with these ingredients are good for those looking for a gentler approach.
If dark spots or any form of hyperpigmentation is a concern for you, depending on your budget, your commitment to homecare, or what kind of downtime you’re willing to have, there are a few treatment options I lean towards. A series of light peels paired with a physical form of exfoliation like Diamond Glow dermabrasion or dermaplaning. How many treatments you will need depend on the severity and root cause of your pigmentation, as certain conditions are more stubborn to treat, but these will generally get you some beautiful results.
Microneedling with PRP is another route I like to take. As I explained above, when we overproduce melanin, that results in pigment disorders, and these skin functions are happening in deeper skin layers… since we are using our device to put microchannels into the skin and penetrating the dermis, we begin stimulating the skin’s natural growth factors, increasing all that important cell communication and regulation. In turn, moving that pigment up and out and reducing discoloration. All while promoting the production of collagen and elastin as well, leaving us with healthier, more youthful, even-toned skin. I like to suggest 3-6 rounds of this treatment, once a month, followed or intertwined with no-downtime peels or Diamond Glow and it’s simply… chef’s kiss.